The Story Of Great Maryland Wine In 2020

Kevin Atticks returned to his native state publishing Discovering Maryland Wineries in 1999, later developing marketing and legislative initiatives upon assuming directorship of the Maryland Wineries Association in 2003, a role he continues to hold along side steering the state’s comparable organizations of beers and spirits under the banner Grow & Fortify. “In 2000 Maryland had 11 wineries, in 2003 that’d swelled to 15; today that totals 100," he confirmed. "Maryland’s odd shape gives us four distinct microclimates with Chardonnay doing well in nearly all areas. The Piedmont region northwest of Baltimore supports mostly Bordeaux varieties with a bit of Nebbiolo, Pinot noir, Chambourcin, Albariño, Grüner Veltliner.”

Rob Deford Jr.’s farmer family had been supplying the Wagners with grapes for years when Philip & Jocelyn sold them the Boordy brand. The Defords moved the operation and brand to its current site which he still oversees with his wife Julie and son Phineas. “My motivation in 1978 was to save my family farm, so in 1979 I went to UC-Davis returning in 1980 to take the reins.” Upon recommendations from foundational consultant Lucie Morton he began restructuring his vineyards in 2006, ending with winery's upgrade in 2013 to include pumpless winemaking. Tom Burns has been onsite overseeing winemaking since 1986 "when we were 18,000 gallons--we eventually peaked at 120,000,” now assisted by Spanish enologist José Real. Of Boordy’s three brands the Landmark is 100% Maryland fruit from the Catoctin AVA, with the Sweetland label dedicated to sweeter wines. Deford and son Phineas receive over 80,000 visitors annually, many of whom come to their summer farmers markets. Its Merlot Reserve 2016, buttressed with 8% Cabernet sauvignon and 5% Petit verdot, smells of cocoa with a big plummy entry on the palate with medium length finish. “Year in year out it makes a fruity, soft wine with distinctive spicy notes,” said Deford.