The Saga Of Pinot Noir In Friuli-venezia

By Vincenzo D’Antonio

Thirteen years have passed since the movie Sideways was released in cinemas. A good film, the leader of what would later become, with its narrative decor, product placement.

The vineyards of California and... "the" wine: Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir: 118 thousand hectares of vineyards in the world, of which just under 5 thousand in Italy.

The character of Pinot Noir is of considerable intensity and if we do not say that it intimidates, we certainly must and can say that it intrigues.

It is approached not so much with the reverential fear with which we approach the great noblemen of the world, but with the studied audacity of who, however, an opportunity like this cannot and does not want to miss it. We are talking about the Majesty of wines from international vines and, at the same time, we are beginning to appreciate the contribution that the generous friulian territory can bring. True that was born in Burgundy, but equally true is that it has certificate of adoption in Friuli!

Here, in Friuli, people (men and women) who know how to make wine, who know the fatigue in the vineyard, having lived on their skin the inefficiencies of consortium areas that protect little and value even less, have made the courageous and wise choice to make a network. It is by no means coincidental that the Business Network is the Pinot Nero FVG Business Network, in the first of January 2019 when the first three years of laborious and profitable activity were completed. A daring but not unrealistic objective: to promote and enhance Pinot Noir, which in its friulian interpretation is finding a new, peculiar and fascinating expression. Pinot Noir, intended as a symbol of excellent wine production, is well prepared to enhance the specificity of a terroir that, in itself, in its articulations, can give wines adjacent and adjacent but. . . it's never the same Pinot Noir though! The great value of diversity within a well recognizable landmark.

The President of the Network is Fabrizio Gallo, owner of Masut da Rive. "Our common denominator is the desire to grow the notoriety of Pinot Noir explaining, with the example of our wines, because in this region the vine takes on inimitable characteristics", says President Fabrizio Gallo.

In Italy, it must be said, Pinot Noir has found a home especially in Trentino Alto-Adige, in Oltrepo? Pavese, in Veneto, in Tuscany and in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Having arrived in the Northeast at the end of two centuries ago, the vine did not know immediate fortune. The main cause is to be found in the complexity of the grapes and in the difficulties encountered in raising it. For many decades, Pinot Noir was used only as a basis for cutting the acidity of native wines. The arrival of other vines such as Cabernet and Merlot made the need to soften less and, as a result, the production of Pinot noir was considerably reduced.

It took other decades before brave producers were able to face the noble vine, dedicating all the necessary care both during the breeding and in the vinification phase and strongly believing that this grape could even become an expression of the winegrowing identity of Friuli Venezia Giulia. In this region with very particular climatic and landscape features, which enclose a few kilometers of different environments (lagoon, mountain, marine and hill), Pinot Noir maintains its austere Nordic elegance, adding an amazing Mediterranean note.

The nine partner wineries of the Pinot Noir Business Network Friuli Venezia Giulia have a total of 28 hectares of vineyards (about 150 in total) planted in Pinot Noir, with a total production of 150 thousand bottles, slightly higher now than in previous years.

All the partner wineries have gained a good expertise in the production of Pinot noir of at least ten and, in some cases, even twenty years. The partner wineries produce a total of 11 different Pinot noir.

From meditated tastings, to recurring providential notes, here we discover impressions and emotions on some of our great wines.

Antico Borgo dei Colli: The owner is Flavio Schiratti. The 18 hectares of vineyards are located in the Judrio valley, on the border between Slovenia and Collio, with a cool and breezy microclimate. We particularly liked that it is easy drinking and that it is not separated by its natural and admirable elegance.

Antonutti:  This is made by Adriana Antonutti, Caterina Gregoratti, Lino, Nicola and Riccardo Durandi. This Pinot Nero is macerated and fermented in stainless steel. It is partially matured  in stainless steel and partly in tonneaux. Very pleasant aromas.

Castello di Spessa: A sumptuous location, it is in fact a castle, designed to facilitate and characterize the refinement of this Pinot Noir that pays homage to the "Casanova" label. It relates to the visit of the famous Venetian to the castellans of Spessa in 1773.

Count of Attimis Maniago: The current owner of this ancestral mansion is Count Alberto d'Attimis Maniago, who thus sums up his family name: "a marriage with the vine and the vineyard that has lasted for more than four hundred years". "This land is called ponca and is one of the best for the vine", says Count Alberto. Its Pinot Noir is vinified in stainless steel at 26 ° C, it is aged sur lie and rests in its sixteenth century cellar. 

Gori: In reality it is very young, at the threshold of the first decade. "Our Pinot Noir is called Nemas 1 ° and comes from vineyards in Guyot hills", says Piero Gori. Nemas 1st is elegant, with notes of small berries, complex and tannic.

Jermann: The winery was founded in 1881; Currently the winery is run by Silvio Jermann and Edi Clementin the general manager. Red Angel is their Pinot Noir. Delicate ruby red color, harmonious and slightly herbaceous bouquet.

Masut da Rive: We are at the fourth generation. This Pinot is named Maurus. It is intense ruby red with aromas of fruit, withered flowers and hints of undergrowth.

Submitted By Robert Scott
October 14, 2018
Go-Wine.com